Tootling along is the right word as we are just having short sails ( about 20-35 miles) and aim for another bay to drop our anchor and shelter for the night or two as we want. It is pretty and there are enough anchorages in different positions to get one that is protected from the Atlantic swell and wind. It felt a milestone to go around Finisterre which is our furthest point west and actually be heading south!
We have stopped at Corme which had a beautiful beach to sunbathe and swim. the weather was sunny and very warm. The local fishermen use Viveros for cultivating mussels and clams in shallow water as you can see in the photo we took. They are a hazard, particularly at night as they are poorly marked and the lingering fog during the day that occurs in the summer can make passage through them a challenge…
Rias de Camarinas ( we anchored in Cala de Villa)was a large Ria with the advantage for yachtsmen as there are several anchoring spots with protection from most wind directions. However you have to be careful getting into the Ria in rough seas or wind from the northwest due to shallows in the entrance. The beaches were lovely and we spent time sunbathing, reading and an evening visit into the town . We watched a floundering fishing boat which had run aground in the harbour, the fishermen were frantically trying to get it afloat and moving without damaging other vessels. Another had keeled over in the mud and heavily leaning on its’ neighbour! We were on Spring tides which are the highest you get but they must have been unusually high that day to see 2 boats in trouble.
Next to sail around was Cape Finisterre known for being the furthest Western part of Europe.
This rugged coast amply justifies its name as Costa del Morte !! Our navigation and decisions en route here were taken very seriously. In the event getting around was no problem we saw the lighthouses and rounded in to the Ria de Corcubion..
We anchored in Sardineiro and it would have been lovely but for me vomiting and feeling rough (not seasickness) my neck and headache had been playing up. The night proved very uncomfortable for all as a heavy swell came in unexpected.at 3am
( Pete and Pam Taylor on Renegade had arrived with their friend Mike earlier, and come into the bay to join us and probably regretted it !!!)
We set off today (weds) towards Portosin but the swell was huge and the wind unfavourable and it was raining! so eventually we decided to turn around and nip into Finisterre harbour close by. Our friends on Renegade braved it and carried on to Portosin. we will go on a calmer day!
The next day,Thursday 2nd August was suitable for us to try again for Portosin . The sea swell was moderate but with no rain and a gentle 2 knot ENE wind (motoring again!) we set off at 09.00hrs.
We had an alarming short period of thick coastal ‘fog’ which is normal for this area but when it cleared we enjoyed surfing down the large waves in to Portosin 3 hours later.
It amazes me how you can change your course in a heavy sea and have such a dramatic change of the ‘experience’ on the boat. One way, you can be facing into the wind with the swell coming towards you and crashing into the waves . The boat makes massive banging noises on the hull which is quite disconcerting to hear! The waves wash over the bow and down the deck of the boat, sometimes spraying who ever is at the helm ! AND if you turn the boat around, then the wind is from behind and the swell coming from the rear too, you seem to rise up with the waves and surf down the other side. Altogether that feels a much calmer experience. ♦
Anyway, safely docked in the friendly marina of Portosin we caught up with Pam and Pete on ‘Renegade’ (with their friend Mike, who had arrived to be with them for a couple of weeks) whom had slogged on through the previous days seas . The facilities here good with laundry, showers, wifi and extremely pleasant staff who are eager to please and speak very good English.
The town is a small but very busy fishing port.. I think (if we understood the Spanish!) they bring in tons of sardines here. There are a few restaurants and shops but nothing special.. the beauty is in the setting and surrounding hills.
Helmut and his wife Linda also turned up later that day so we decided to have a little get-together in front of the marina around a few tables with nibbles and a drink before going our separate ways for dinner etc .. It ended up a much larger event with other boat owners joining us at different times during the evening. including a French couple( Nadine and Serge) from La rochelle, Gareth from London (on board Jalfrezi) and a bunch of crew on board a Tall ship belonging to the elite Gordonstoun private school ( Scotland) They had just sailed continuously from Cadiz with pupils taking part in a tall ship race.
We had a fab night, singing and entertaining ourselves in the setting sun. Helmut got out his trumpet and played some jazz… ….. perhaps there would be a few sore heads in the morning! … Helmut mentioned during the evening that this was really a true European gathering not just separate countries keeping themselves to themselves.. Another reason why i am loving this journey…
Another bit of news… the sale of the house will go through on the 10th August … at long last ( one month late) we had to do a bit of running around to get documents signed and fedex’d over to the UK but are so relieved it will be completed soon. Thanks to our friends back home who have been looking after the house and cutting grass etc in our absence. we really appreciate it.
Tommorrow we hop over to the other side of the Ria de Muros to Muros town. This is a very pretty Ria with hills and water that remind me of a Scottish loch .
Cheerio the noo xx